The Himalayan High - Sojourn 2

Back from Yamunotri temple trek around 11 ish, we packed our stuff and restarted our journey onwards. The early morning hillside trek and the mountain air had made us quite ravenous.

Few kilometres before Barkot, we stopped at a roadside dhaba, for freshly cooked daal, rice and some vegetable curry. Having had our fill, we continued on the meandering mountain tracks, enjoying the nature and the mountain breeze. We crossed Uttarkashi around 4.30 in the evening. A light drizzle had started. The last petrol pump on the way to Gangotri lies only a few kilometres beyond Uttarkashi. 

Netala-  halt before Gangotri

We halted the day's journey at Netala, at the Vishwarup residency. We booked rooms overlooking the playful Bhagirathi , bordered by the Himalayan ranges. Netala seemed to be a favourite night- halt for pilgrims on their way to Gangotri. Very soon, a number of buses, tempo travelers and cars stopped at this place. As we went out for an evening stroll, the place was buzzing with activity.

Waiting for passage through Gangnani

Though Google map shows only about two hours drive from Netala to Gangotri, the road conditions and traffic make it about 3.5 to 4 hours journey. We started off early next morning around 6. On the way there is a hot spring at Gangnani. Pilgrims like to take s dip in the hot water here. This causes some road congestion, but then no one is complaining, considering the lovely view around. Climbing uphill, we saw lofty mountain sides - capped with snow, but so steep that they were barren as no vegetation could find a foothold, skirted with the gushing waters of the Bhagirathi. Slowly, the surrounding changed to lush green mountain walls dotted with innumerable water falls. Higher still, we crossed gardens of apple trees, which we were told are laden with fruits around Sept-Oct.

Enroute Gangotri

Enroute

We made a brief stop at Bhaironghati, just about 8 km before Gangotri. The view beyond this place was more of snow capped , sky- high mountains. The road was under construction and traffic moved slow. 

At Gangotri, pilgrim and traffic are well managed. The temple is a vision in white, encircled by barren mountain tops. We entered the sanctum sanctorum which seats the Ganga panchayat,  consisting of Bhagirath, Gangaji, Ganeshji among others. Just beside the temple complex, pilgrims take a dip in icy cold waters of the pristine Bhagirathi. Standing for a couple of minutes in it, to collect the water, turns the fingers blue in cold. Indeed, it is awe inspiring to see the multitude, in

Bhaironghati

their unwavering faith in this unique representation of a river, revered and venerated as Mother Goddess.

Gangotri Temple

On our descent, after a sumptuous brunch, we stopped to shoot the helipad near Harshil and the famous waterfall a few metres ahead. The Loharinag Pala Hydro power project by NTPC  is a run-of-the-river hydroelectricity generating project few kilometres before Gangnani. Downstream, we also cross the Maneri Dam and the Maneri lake, one of the innumerable dams built on the Bhagirathi . It made one reflect upon the dichotomy of the water body - on one hand it represents the faith and belief of millions of Hindus and on the other it is a source of electricity generation - a gift of modern science and technology!

As we started thinking, that we could proceed up to about Chamba, the overcast skies opened up. This is an almost expectedly unexpected weather condition in the hills, around the hot summer months...scorching days, sudden evening showers , resulting in chilly nights. A hailstorm ensued.

Our driver advised us against further driving downhill. Thus we made the day's halt at Uttarkashi.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple
at Uttarkashi

Trident at the Shakti Temple

The stopover was in fact a blessing in disguise!Uttarkashi, meaning the Kashi of the north, is situated at the confluence of the Varuna and Asi rivers about 3800 ft above sea level. It has a Kashi Vishwanath temple, whose presiding deity is a massive Shivalinga. In the same complex is a Shakti temple which houses a gigantic Trident, weapon of the Mother Goddess, which has an axe by the side of it, representing Lord Parashuram. Uttarkashi also has the Annapurna temple, Bhairav temple, Gopeshwar temple, Karnadev temple and Parashuram temple. We spent a lovely evening, visiting all these shrines guided by a Maharaj from the Ramakrishna Math order.

The Gopeshwar temple has a Shivlinga similar in size as the Kashi Vishwanath temple.

Karnadev Temple

The Annapurna deity is a petite brass statue, holding a kalash and a serving ladle in either hand. The karnadev temple is again a Shiva temple, however the idol here has a distinct Mongolian face.

Uttarkashi finds mention in the annals of Hiuen Tsang as Brahma Pura. It is believed that in the second millennium of Kaliyug, Kashi will be submerged, and Uttarkashi will replace it as an important religious centre - http://uttarkashi.nic.in.

Early next day, we bid adieu to Uttarkashi at 6, as we had to cover a distance of about 400 km to

Noida. Enroute , we made a halt for breakfast after Chamba around 9.15 and another at the Cheetal Grand for a late lunch  around 3. We touched Noida at 5.30 with memories and good vibes from the mountains.

Travel tips :

1. Keep a day extra in your travel itinerary to accommodate unexpected weather conditions in the hills.

2. It is okay to travel even without fixed hotel reservations to these pilgrimages, since you are not sure where you might need to halt on which day . Plus the weather conditions not being so conducive at these places, people don't stay too long. Thus making it likely to get vacant rooms.

3. It is a good idea to travel in medium sized groups, as the travel take a long time .

The Himalayan High - Sojourn 1

Visiting the mighty Himalayas, even for the nth time, never ceases to be awe- inspiring. The high mountains, varying landscape, changing greenery, grey- green waters gushing alongside the vast mountain sides...it is enough to give a high! One is spell- bound and craves to rush back time and again.

This time, it was a short trip to two of the four Dhams in the Garwal mountains - Yamunotri and Gangotri. The gates to theses shrines opened this year on 28th April, and we were on a trip on 5th of May. Reaching Haridwar, the base camp in a sense, in about 4 hours time from Noida, we took the rest of the day at a relaxed pace. Anticipating hectic travel over the next few days, we wanted to keep it easy for the first.

Evening Arati at Har ki Pouri

Evening saw us visit the RKM ashram at Kankhal and the Dakshprajapti temple. Later we strolled by the banks of the Ganges at the famous Har ki Pouri to participate in the evening Arati and witness thousands of devotees as they thronged the place - some taking a dip in the holy Ganges at that late hour, others floating small dongas of flowers and diyas in the water. The multitude engrossed in various activities around the ebullient waters makes one realise that the belief in a single religion and its epitome binds individuals from divergent places and languages, culture and clothes!

Melting pot of the teeming multitude

Early next day, around six, we started off towards Janki Chatti, the base point for the trek to Yamuntori. Enroute breakfast at Sher-e-Punjab dhaba on the road towards Dehra consisted of Puri-sabji, tandoor alu paratha and delicious tea. Having crossed the Kempty falls at Mussorie, we were joined by the Yamuna river after the Yamuna bridge. Here we missed the typical Deodars or pines. The Himalayan flora was mostly of short to medium height trees, so much so, that the hills afar seemed barren. By and by, the vegetation increased. As we climbed higher, the trees too changed. We were once again, in the familiar Himalayan forests of tall trees. The foliage was shades of green to silvery white. 

Herd of Himalayan goats

Few kilometres past Barkot, we stopped to have the Char Dham pilgrim identification cards made. A few kilometres ahead we suddenly caught glimpses of snow capped mountain peaks. The snow was glistening in the afternoon Sun. It was indeed a surreal sight - the mountain side covered in green and a few hills away sparkling sheets of snow!

Arriving at Janki Chatti

We reached Janki Chatti around 4-4.30pm. Temperatures had dipped. The Yamuna was now a noisy, bold river rushing down the valley. The surrounding mountain tops were carpeted with thick snow. We boarded at the Mandakini Residency, a decent enough stay for a night. It was drizzling in the evening - bringing the temperature further down. Caught unprepared, we enjoyed a bowl or two of Maggi and tea at the roadside stall.

Pony ride up the trek

The Yamunotri temple
and its backdrop

Pilgrims start out for the trek to Yamunotri quite early, to beat the heat and crowd. We started around 5 am. Walking takes about 4-5 hours. On ponies it is about 2.5. Yamunotri is at a height of above 3200 feet from sea level. The river Yamuna originates from the Kalindi parbat of the Banderpunch range. Yamuna is considered to be the Sun God's daughter, Yama's sister and is very closely associated with Lord Krishna's leela.  The main temple is yellow in colour and the garbha griha houses idols of the Yamuna ( in black) and Ganga ( in white). There is also a smaller brass idol for special occasions. The temple is surrounded with the Kala Nag and Banderpunch ranges carpeted with conifers and topped with glaciers. The view is exotic! The temple has hot springs - a big one where pilgrims bathe prior to offering the Puja. There is also a Surya Kund, where rice tied in a small cloth is immersed. The water is so hot that this rice is cooked in some time. There is a small crevice from which hot water gushes out - this being called the origin of the Yamuna.

As the day progresses, the crowd multiplies exponentially.

On our way downhill, we realised, what a blessing it had been to start off early.

Thus we were back to our hotel, well ahead the planned time and eager to get on with the next leg of the trip.

Travel tips: 

1. There are government controlled rates of ponies, doli and piththus at Yamunotri. It is better to plan ahead and fix up something the previous evening (our arrangement was coordinated by our hotel - and it turned out fine for us). Late planning may result in getting over-charged due to shortage of resources.

2. Check on the weather report before traveling. Be prepared for unannounced showers, which can severely drop the temp.

3. Keep snacks, as it benefits to save on multiple tea-snack breaks. Travel time in these parts is almost @ 30 km / hr.

A drive through the Rhododendrons - to Dhanaulti and back

The Good Friday to Easter Sunday break offered us an extended weekend getaway. Always eager to make most of such opportunities, J and I headed towards the Himalayan foothills.
Starting from Noida, early on Friday, we reached Kishanpur by afternoon. We took a hence-untraveled route towards Dehra, crossing the Bhat Kali temple and a tunnel bored through the mountains.

RKM Ashrama, Kishanpur

At Kishanpur, we stayed at the RKM Ashrama. The mighty Himalayan range guards the backdrop of the serene Ashrama. Besides the main temple, there is a library, classrooms for the underprivileged children, a hospital, guest rooms , staff quarters and a cowshed! About twenty to twenty five cows meet the milk products requirement of the Ashrama, and the rest is sold to locals.
After the evening tea, J and I stepped out for a walk. It was a laid back town, though with all modern amenities of malls, movie theatres et al. We then attended the evening Arati - just a very small group of Brahmacharis , Maharajas and a handful of devotees. Dinner was simple but tasty fare. All residents of the Ashrama from security guard to domestic helpers and guests sit together for dinner. Also each is supposed to wash their utensils after every meal.
The next day being Bengali New Year and capitalising the same- campus stay, we attended the early morning Mangal Arati at 5 a.m. Special Puja started at 8.30, when we took our leave to continue our onward journey.

J at Char Dukan, Landour

An hour's drive brought us to the hill station of Landour. Landour is most famous as the home of popular writer Ruskin Bond. The Char Dukan area is a group of four to five shops which started around 1910. We stopped for yummy chicken momos, coffee, hot chocolate. There we met a group of  very well- brought up school kids who were on their day out for excursion to Lal Tibba. We too walked down about a km to the Lal tibba which is a view-point.later, we would come to know that actor Victor Banerjee 's residence was only a few steps beyond the Lal tibba. St. John's church was
being decked up for the Easter celebrations of the morrow.
Having spent about an hour, we re- started our onward trip.
The road to Dhanaulti and also while returning was lined with lush, verdant vegetation. The coniferous trees, characteristic of the lower hills. Trees had foliage of red, yellow and mauve hue. Flowers of white and purple and pink resembling avenues of  cherry blossom out of a Mary Poppins!
Deodars , pines and rhododendrons in full bloom - it was like Nature's most decorated Invite!

Trek start point

Having reached GMVN TRH at Dhanaulti, we took an hour or so to freshen up and lunch. Then we went ahead about 5-6 km to the Surkunda Devi temple. Upon reaching there, we realised that it had a steep trek of 2 km . Undaunted we set ahead, in the name of the Holy Mother! Families of young and old were on their way down, shopkeepers mid-way egging the devotees and the occasional chant of "Jai mata Di". The path was cobbled and had railings - so enough support for a slow climber. It took about three fourths of the hour to reach the top! Once there, all exhaustion vanishes , strong cool mountain breeze relaxes the body and the soul. The main shrine had three devis- Mahakali , Maha Saraswati and Maha  Chandi. The Chandi Devi did not have a full face, she had only half her head- denoting the head or "sir" of Devi sati which had fallen at this site making it one of the Shaktipeeths.

Surkunda Devi Temple 

Photographed ourselves to our heart's content we started our climb down. Downswards trek took only about 15-20 minutes. The path is crowded with boisterous troops of monkeys - so one has to be cautious while carrying any Puja offerings.
At the TRH, a hot shower and warm cup of coffee later to our limbs were relaxed and rejuvenated.
After dinner, we marveled at the crystal clear skies which has become such a rarity in the cities we
live in.
Early next day, we went for a morning walk around the still- sleepy hamlet of Dhanaulti . We tried to capture the snow capped Himalayas visible through the forests of pine and deodar. After a heavy breakfast, we set out towards Chamba and the Tehri Dam.

Himalayan ranges enroute Chamba

Enroute, we were enchanted with the clear view of the Nanda Devi, Trishul ranges - clear blue skies and flaming red rhododendrons!
Tehri is the highest dam in India. It is now a high security area, with limited access and prohibited photography. There are water sports arranged in the reservoir - which is another tourist attraction of this place.the dam and the surrounding area is maintained by the THDC ( Tehri Hydro Development Corp ltd.)
Our short trip of the Himalayas was now coming to a close.
We returned via the Rishikesh- Haridwar route. Food at  Marvins exotica was delicious.
There was heavy traffic on the way back, marring the pleasant trip a wee bit- but that's story for another day.
We returned refreshed, rejuvenated and relaxed, as we always do from the Himalayas.

Dreams and dances in the Chandela kingdom

It had long been on one's mind to witness the "Khajuraho Dance Festival" . This year, late in Jan, browsing through the internet, one chanced upon an advert which said that the said festival was to happen this year in February last week.
The mind was abuzz.. the tickling in the feet...one resorted to the state tourism website. 
The hubby wanted to club the Panna National Reserve trip.. hence we zeroed in on Hotel Jhankar which seemed mid way the temples and the national park.
So, on Feb 24, we eagerly boarded the Sampark Kranti from Hz Nizamuddin to Khajuraho. This train has a few bogies journeying to Khajuraho and others to another destination. We were joined by SK and family.
Anticipating heavy Delhi traffic ahead of a weekend, we were well on time at the station.. journey was comfortable..had a bunch of crazy 60-something girlies for company !

Mountain like architecture

The hotel had sent pick up cab.. Khajuraho is a small town...pretty newly built railway station and airport. The road to the Hotel was lined with huge trees, road was clean..pretty impressive for a first time traveler.
Khajuraho has three major groups of temples. Most of these were built by the Chandela rulers during the 8th- 10th centuries.  The most famous being the Western group, which was only about 5 mins drive from our hotel. After freshening up, the receptionist , Ms Kirti Sen, arranged for a guide for the day (@ ₹1500) and a cab. About couple of hours at the Western group...we traveled back in time.. to the land of "khajur" or date trees and architectural awesomeness! Starting with the Lakshamana temple, one was awestruck at the Kandariya Mahadev temple. It seemed indeed like the high rising Himalayas!                                                               Such perfect example of engineering and immaculate architecture. Onward covering the Jagadambi Temple, Vishnu temple guarded by the Nandi shrine...one wowed at the cleanliness and well maintained lawns . One was most captivated by the Parvati temple, which had three minarets, each representing the Christian, Muslim and Hindu architecture...there was so much of unity even all those centuries ago!

Unity in diversity

Diamond mines in the background

Having taken a lunch break, we proceeded to the southern and eastern group of temples. 
The southern group consists of the the Chaturbhuj and the Dhuladeo temples. The Chaturbhuj temple houses a huge idol of Lord Vishnu. In the backdrop are the only active diamond mines of India. 

The Dhuladeo temple opens its sanctum only on the Mahashivratri - which was just the preceding day...we had missed only by a few hours!
Finally, we visited the Jain temples, which are unique in the way that they house two sanctum sanctorums , one facing the East and the other facing West.
Quite exhausted by our rapid fire trip , yet content to have visited all places we returned to the resort to rest for a while.

Matangeswara Temple - evening Arati

Evening arrived , with renewed vigour and keenness we once again journeyed to the Western Temple complex, where we would now witness the famed Dance festival. prior to that we attended the evening Arati at the only active temple in Khajuraho group of temples - the Matangeshwara Temple.

Kathak

Later we were awestruck by the Odissi and Kathak dance recitals. As the third dance form of Manipuri was starting , we made our way out for some trivial shopping from the adjoining fair. 
We dined at one of the nearby Raja Cafe, which seemed to be a favourite of the performers and their entourage.
Thus ended Day 1 of our Khajuraho sojourn.