The Himalayan High - Sojourn 1

Visiting the mighty Himalayas, even for the nth time, never ceases to be awe- inspiring. The high mountains, varying landscape, changing greenery, grey- green waters gushing alongside the vast mountain sides...it is enough to give a high! One is spell- bound and craves to rush back time and again.

This time, it was a short trip to two of the four Dhams in the Garwal mountains - Yamunotri and Gangotri. The gates to theses shrines opened this year on 28th April, and we were on a trip on 5th of May. Reaching Haridwar, the base camp in a sense, in about 4 hours time from Noida, we took the rest of the day at a relaxed pace. Anticipating hectic travel over the next few days, we wanted to keep it easy for the first.

Evening Arati at Har ki Pouri

Evening saw us visit the RKM ashram at Kankhal and the Dakshprajapti temple. Later we strolled by the banks of the Ganges at the famous Har ki Pouri to participate in the evening Arati and witness thousands of devotees as they thronged the place - some taking a dip in the holy Ganges at that late hour, others floating small dongas of flowers and diyas in the water. The multitude engrossed in various activities around the ebullient waters makes one realise that the belief in a single religion and its epitome binds individuals from divergent places and languages, culture and clothes!

Melting pot of the teeming multitude

Early next day, around six, we started off towards Janki Chatti, the base point for the trek to Yamuntori. Enroute breakfast at Sher-e-Punjab dhaba on the road towards Dehra consisted of Puri-sabji, tandoor alu paratha and delicious tea. Having crossed the Kempty falls at Mussorie, we were joined by the Yamuna river after the Yamuna bridge. Here we missed the typical Deodars or pines. The Himalayan flora was mostly of short to medium height trees, so much so, that the hills afar seemed barren. By and by, the vegetation increased. As we climbed higher, the trees too changed. We were once again, in the familiar Himalayan forests of tall trees. The foliage was shades of green to silvery white. 

Herd of Himalayan goats

Few kilometres past Barkot, we stopped to have the Char Dham pilgrim identification cards made. A few kilometres ahead we suddenly caught glimpses of snow capped mountain peaks. The snow was glistening in the afternoon Sun. It was indeed a surreal sight - the mountain side covered in green and a few hills away sparkling sheets of snow!

Arriving at Janki Chatti

We reached Janki Chatti around 4-4.30pm. Temperatures had dipped. The Yamuna was now a noisy, bold river rushing down the valley. The surrounding mountain tops were carpeted with thick snow. We boarded at the Mandakini Residency, a decent enough stay for a night. It was drizzling in the evening - bringing the temperature further down. Caught unprepared, we enjoyed a bowl or two of Maggi and tea at the roadside stall.

Pony ride up the trek

The Yamunotri temple
and its backdrop

Pilgrims start out for the trek to Yamunotri quite early, to beat the heat and crowd. We started around 5 am. Walking takes about 4-5 hours. On ponies it is about 2.5. Yamunotri is at a height of above 3200 feet from sea level. The river Yamuna originates from the Kalindi parbat of the Banderpunch range. Yamuna is considered to be the Sun God's daughter, Yama's sister and is very closely associated with Lord Krishna's leela.  The main temple is yellow in colour and the garbha griha houses idols of the Yamuna ( in black) and Ganga ( in white). There is also a smaller brass idol for special occasions. The temple is surrounded with the Kala Nag and Banderpunch ranges carpeted with conifers and topped with glaciers. The view is exotic! The temple has hot springs - a big one where pilgrims bathe prior to offering the Puja. There is also a Surya Kund, where rice tied in a small cloth is immersed. The water is so hot that this rice is cooked in some time. There is a small crevice from which hot water gushes out - this being called the origin of the Yamuna.

As the day progresses, the crowd multiplies exponentially.

On our way downhill, we realised, what a blessing it had been to start off early.

Thus we were back to our hotel, well ahead the planned time and eager to get on with the next leg of the trip.

Travel tips: 

1. There are government controlled rates of ponies, doli and piththus at Yamunotri. It is better to plan ahead and fix up something the previous evening (our arrangement was coordinated by our hotel - and it turned out fine for us). Late planning may result in getting over-charged due to shortage of resources.

2. Check on the weather report before traveling. Be prepared for unannounced showers, which can severely drop the temp.

3. Keep snacks, as it benefits to save on multiple tea-snack breaks. Travel time in these parts is almost @ 30 km / hr.