The Himalayan High - Sojourn 2

Back from Yamunotri temple trek around 11 ish, we packed our stuff and restarted our journey onwards. The early morning hillside trek and the mountain air had made us quite ravenous.

Few kilometres before Barkot, we stopped at a roadside dhaba, for freshly cooked daal, rice and some vegetable curry. Having had our fill, we continued on the meandering mountain tracks, enjoying the nature and the mountain breeze. We crossed Uttarkashi around 4.30 in the evening. A light drizzle had started. The last petrol pump on the way to Gangotri lies only a few kilometres beyond Uttarkashi. 

Netala-  halt before Gangotri

We halted the day's journey at Netala, at the Vishwarup residency. We booked rooms overlooking the playful Bhagirathi , bordered by the Himalayan ranges. Netala seemed to be a favourite night- halt for pilgrims on their way to Gangotri. Very soon, a number of buses, tempo travelers and cars stopped at this place. As we went out for an evening stroll, the place was buzzing with activity.

Waiting for passage through Gangnani

Though Google map shows only about two hours drive from Netala to Gangotri, the road conditions and traffic make it about 3.5 to 4 hours journey. We started off early next morning around 6. On the way there is a hot spring at Gangnani. Pilgrims like to take s dip in the hot water here. This causes some road congestion, but then no one is complaining, considering the lovely view around. Climbing uphill, we saw lofty mountain sides - capped with snow, but so steep that they were barren as no vegetation could find a foothold, skirted with the gushing waters of the Bhagirathi. Slowly, the surrounding changed to lush green mountain walls dotted with innumerable water falls. Higher still, we crossed gardens of apple trees, which we were told are laden with fruits around Sept-Oct.

Enroute Gangotri

Enroute

We made a brief stop at Bhaironghati, just about 8 km before Gangotri. The view beyond this place was more of snow capped , sky- high mountains. The road was under construction and traffic moved slow. 

At Gangotri, pilgrim and traffic are well managed. The temple is a vision in white, encircled by barren mountain tops. We entered the sanctum sanctorum which seats the Ganga panchayat,  consisting of Bhagirath, Gangaji, Ganeshji among others. Just beside the temple complex, pilgrims take a dip in icy cold waters of the pristine Bhagirathi. Standing for a couple of minutes in it, to collect the water, turns the fingers blue in cold. Indeed, it is awe inspiring to see the multitude, in

Bhaironghati

their unwavering faith in this unique representation of a river, revered and venerated as Mother Goddess.

Gangotri Temple

On our descent, after a sumptuous brunch, we stopped to shoot the helipad near Harshil and the famous waterfall a few metres ahead. The Loharinag Pala Hydro power project by NTPC  is a run-of-the-river hydroelectricity generating project few kilometres before Gangnani. Downstream, we also cross the Maneri Dam and the Maneri lake, one of the innumerable dams built on the Bhagirathi . It made one reflect upon the dichotomy of the water body - on one hand it represents the faith and belief of millions of Hindus and on the other it is a source of electricity generation - a gift of modern science and technology!

As we started thinking, that we could proceed up to about Chamba, the overcast skies opened up. This is an almost expectedly unexpected weather condition in the hills, around the hot summer months...scorching days, sudden evening showers , resulting in chilly nights. A hailstorm ensued.

Our driver advised us against further driving downhill. Thus we made the day's halt at Uttarkashi.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple
at Uttarkashi

Trident at the Shakti Temple

The stopover was in fact a blessing in disguise!Uttarkashi, meaning the Kashi of the north, is situated at the confluence of the Varuna and Asi rivers about 3800 ft above sea level. It has a Kashi Vishwanath temple, whose presiding deity is a massive Shivalinga. In the same complex is a Shakti temple which houses a gigantic Trident, weapon of the Mother Goddess, which has an axe by the side of it, representing Lord Parashuram. Uttarkashi also has the Annapurna temple, Bhairav temple, Gopeshwar temple, Karnadev temple and Parashuram temple. We spent a lovely evening, visiting all these shrines guided by a Maharaj from the Ramakrishna Math order.

The Gopeshwar temple has a Shivlinga similar in size as the Kashi Vishwanath temple.

Karnadev Temple

The Annapurna deity is a petite brass statue, holding a kalash and a serving ladle in either hand. The karnadev temple is again a Shiva temple, however the idol here has a distinct Mongolian face.

Uttarkashi finds mention in the annals of Hiuen Tsang as Brahma Pura. It is believed that in the second millennium of Kaliyug, Kashi will be submerged, and Uttarkashi will replace it as an important religious centre - http://uttarkashi.nic.in.

Early next day, we bid adieu to Uttarkashi at 6, as we had to cover a distance of about 400 km to

Noida. Enroute , we made a halt for breakfast after Chamba around 9.15 and another at the Cheetal Grand for a late lunch  around 3. We touched Noida at 5.30 with memories and good vibes from the mountains.

Travel tips :

1. Keep a day extra in your travel itinerary to accommodate unexpected weather conditions in the hills.

2. It is okay to travel even without fixed hotel reservations to these pilgrimages, since you are not sure where you might need to halt on which day . Plus the weather conditions not being so conducive at these places, people don't stay too long. Thus making it likely to get vacant rooms.

3. It is a good idea to travel in medium sized groups, as the travel take a long time .

The Himalayan High - Sojourn 1

Visiting the mighty Himalayas, even for the nth time, never ceases to be awe- inspiring. The high mountains, varying landscape, changing greenery, grey- green waters gushing alongside the vast mountain sides...it is enough to give a high! One is spell- bound and craves to rush back time and again.

This time, it was a short trip to two of the four Dhams in the Garwal mountains - Yamunotri and Gangotri. The gates to theses shrines opened this year on 28th April, and we were on a trip on 5th of May. Reaching Haridwar, the base camp in a sense, in about 4 hours time from Noida, we took the rest of the day at a relaxed pace. Anticipating hectic travel over the next few days, we wanted to keep it easy for the first.

Evening Arati at Har ki Pouri

Evening saw us visit the RKM ashram at Kankhal and the Dakshprajapti temple. Later we strolled by the banks of the Ganges at the famous Har ki Pouri to participate in the evening Arati and witness thousands of devotees as they thronged the place - some taking a dip in the holy Ganges at that late hour, others floating small dongas of flowers and diyas in the water. The multitude engrossed in various activities around the ebullient waters makes one realise that the belief in a single religion and its epitome binds individuals from divergent places and languages, culture and clothes!

Melting pot of the teeming multitude

Early next day, around six, we started off towards Janki Chatti, the base point for the trek to Yamuntori. Enroute breakfast at Sher-e-Punjab dhaba on the road towards Dehra consisted of Puri-sabji, tandoor alu paratha and delicious tea. Having crossed the Kempty falls at Mussorie, we were joined by the Yamuna river after the Yamuna bridge. Here we missed the typical Deodars or pines. The Himalayan flora was mostly of short to medium height trees, so much so, that the hills afar seemed barren. By and by, the vegetation increased. As we climbed higher, the trees too changed. We were once again, in the familiar Himalayan forests of tall trees. The foliage was shades of green to silvery white. 

Herd of Himalayan goats

Few kilometres past Barkot, we stopped to have the Char Dham pilgrim identification cards made. A few kilometres ahead we suddenly caught glimpses of snow capped mountain peaks. The snow was glistening in the afternoon Sun. It was indeed a surreal sight - the mountain side covered in green and a few hills away sparkling sheets of snow!

Arriving at Janki Chatti

We reached Janki Chatti around 4-4.30pm. Temperatures had dipped. The Yamuna was now a noisy, bold river rushing down the valley. The surrounding mountain tops were carpeted with thick snow. We boarded at the Mandakini Residency, a decent enough stay for a night. It was drizzling in the evening - bringing the temperature further down. Caught unprepared, we enjoyed a bowl or two of Maggi and tea at the roadside stall.

Pony ride up the trek

The Yamunotri temple
and its backdrop

Pilgrims start out for the trek to Yamunotri quite early, to beat the heat and crowd. We started around 5 am. Walking takes about 4-5 hours. On ponies it is about 2.5. Yamunotri is at a height of above 3200 feet from sea level. The river Yamuna originates from the Kalindi parbat of the Banderpunch range. Yamuna is considered to be the Sun God's daughter, Yama's sister and is very closely associated with Lord Krishna's leela.  The main temple is yellow in colour and the garbha griha houses idols of the Yamuna ( in black) and Ganga ( in white). There is also a smaller brass idol for special occasions. The temple is surrounded with the Kala Nag and Banderpunch ranges carpeted with conifers and topped with glaciers. The view is exotic! The temple has hot springs - a big one where pilgrims bathe prior to offering the Puja. There is also a Surya Kund, where rice tied in a small cloth is immersed. The water is so hot that this rice is cooked in some time. There is a small crevice from which hot water gushes out - this being called the origin of the Yamuna.

As the day progresses, the crowd multiplies exponentially.

On our way downhill, we realised, what a blessing it had been to start off early.

Thus we were back to our hotel, well ahead the planned time and eager to get on with the next leg of the trip.

Travel tips: 

1. There are government controlled rates of ponies, doli and piththus at Yamunotri. It is better to plan ahead and fix up something the previous evening (our arrangement was coordinated by our hotel - and it turned out fine for us). Late planning may result in getting over-charged due to shortage of resources.

2. Check on the weather report before traveling. Be prepared for unannounced showers, which can severely drop the temp.

3. Keep snacks, as it benefits to save on multiple tea-snack breaks. Travel time in these parts is almost @ 30 km / hr.